Skin tone is so important in choosing the right makeup,
but you may be wondering just how to go about
identifying your own skin tone. What should you look for?
What if your skin tone seems neutral but has areas of
mild discoloration or redness? The good news is that
identifying your skin tone need not be difficult. A
simple method of determination is to consider whether
your skin burns or tans when exposed to sun:
- If you tan easily and do not burn,
your skin's natural melanin (the pigment that gives
skin its color) level is higher, and you most likely
have a yellow-to-olive undertone.
- Those who burn and either tan
minimally or not at all have significantly less
melanin, which results in a pink, bluish-red, or ruddy
skin tone. In addition, look for telltale signs: a
ruddy skin tone has obvious signs of redness or is one
that tends to flush easily. Some neutral skin tones
fall into this category, particularly if rosacea is a
factor.
- If a yellow (usually referred to as
"sallow") tone is predominant, you'll notice that a
foundation, concealer, or powders with too much yellow
will make skin look worse, not better.
- Olive skin tones tend to look
somewhat ashen or gray, from the combination of the
natural yellow undertone everyone has and the greenish
hue that’s unique to olive skin of any depth.
- Neutral skin tones are those with
no obvious overtones of olive, sallow, or pink.
These categories hold true for all
women, including women of color; your underlying skin
color will always relate to one of these skin tones. You
may have been told that you are a particular “season”
and your wardrobe and makeup colors should be a specific
undertone, either cool (blue or pink tones) or warm (yellow
or sallow/olive tones). Unfortunately, the rampant
misinformation surrounding skin tone can be misleading
when it comes to choosing your most flattering makeup
shades.
The question of determining skin tone comes into play
most often when shopping for your ideal shade of
foundation. When you’re testing foundation shades, it is
critical to identify your overall, exact skin color and
find a foundation that matches it, regardless of how
ashen/olive, sallow, or pink it appears on the surface.
The goal is to use foundation to neutralize whatever
overtones are present with a neutral- to slightly yellow-toned
foundation, thus matching the skin’s natural undertone.
Why a slightly yellow undertone? Because skin color,
more often than not, always has a yellow undertone:
that’s just what the natural color of melanin tends to
be. For the most part, regardless of your race,
nationality, or age, your foundation should be some
shade of neutral ivory, neutral beige, tan, dark brown,
bronze brown, or ebony, with a slight undertone of
yellow but without any obvious orange, pink, rose, green,
ash, or blue. Adding those shades to a foundation is
never flattering and can look obvious and contrived.
There are a few exceptions to this guideline: Native
North American or South American women, a tiny
percentage of African-American women, and some
Polynesian women do indeed have a red cast to their
skin. In those instances the information about neutral
foundations should be ignored. Because their skin has a
slightly reddish cast, they need to look for foundations
that have a slightly reddish cast to them—but that’s
only a hint of brownish red, and not copper, orange, or
peach.
But regardless of these skin tone categories, when it
comes to foundation, trying it on and making it sure it
matches your skin exactly (especially in daylight) is
the best way to get a color that looks like you, not
like you’re wearing foundation or, even worse, a mask.
Choosing Makeup Colors to Work with Your Skin Tone
A look through any fashion magazine is great for
figuring out what colors work best with your skin tone.
Redheads with fair to medium skin tones like Susan
Sarandon, Nicole Kidman, and Julianne Moore tend to wear
corals, salmon, browns, ambers, bronze, and other earth
tones. Blondes with fair skin to medium skin tones like
Gwyneth Paltrow, Paris Hilton, and Kirsten Dunst favor a
range of pink shades. Brunettes with fair to medium skin
tones like Julia Roberts and Jennifer Garner are often
seen in light rose and soft red shades. Women with dark
brown hair and fair to medium skin tones like Demi Moore,
Sandra Bullock, and Penelope Cruz wear more vivid shades
of rose and cherry. Black hair and deeper skin tones
such as Halle Berry and Angela Bassett wear soft natural
tones such as nude pinks, soft browns, and pale corals.
It is also easy to see that there are exceptions to the
rule and as a change of pace all kinds of color
combinations (not to mention changes in hair color) are
typical. In other words, choosing color can be as
diverse and versatile as changing your clothes. To be
safe, stay with the basics listed above, but in truth,
anything goes as long as it is worn in balance and the
colors work together. |