Marvelous Mascara

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The Basics
Mascara is an amazing invention and is considered
fundamental to any kind of makeup application. Many
makeup artists, including myself, say that if you're not
wearing any other makeup but still want to wear
something, wear mascara. On the other hand, many of us—and
I'm guilty of this too—get carried away and wear way too
much mascara.
Unfortunately, applying too much mascara increases the
chances that the mascara will flake, chip, or smear, and
that the lashes will appear hard and spiked. Also, the
eyelashes can take only so much weight, and excess
weight can break them. Gunked-up lashes with tons of
mascara do not resemble long, thick lashes—they resemble
gunked-up lashes.
The desire for longer, more noticeable lashes inspires
many women to use the device that curls the lashes by
squeezing them into a bent-upward shape. The problem
with lash curlers is that they can crimp lashes into a
severe angle, which looks unnatural, and while it may
make lashes more noticeable, it can also break and pull
them out. If you still want to curl your lashes, only do
so before you apply mascara, never after, or you will
end up with broken or strangely bent lashes. The best
lash curlers are the ones with a sponge tip to protect
your eyelashes. Squeeze gently with even pressure. Hold
for a few seconds and release slowly.
Types of
Mascara
Mascara comes in two basic types: waterproof and water-soluble.
Mascaras should not smudge, flake, or clump. It is not
your fault if they do. Price does not tell you anything
about how a mascara will perform. Drugstore mascaras can
be as good as any on the market, and sometimes even
better.
Water-soluble mascaras: The problem with some
water-soluble mascaras is that they don't come off
easily with water, even though they should. Luckily,
there are great water-soluble mascaras that build long,
thick lashes without clumping or flaking and that come
off with a water-soluble cleanser. I recommend many
excellent mascaras in a variety of price ranges in my
book.
Waterproof mascaras: These can be problematic,
because in order to remove this type of mascara you must
pull and wipe around the eye area. This, in turn, sags
the skin and causes lashes to fall out. I understand the
desire to go swimming while wearing your makeup, or to
cry at weddings and not have mascara streaming down your
cheeks. Waterproof mascara is fine for occasional use,
but wearing it every day can cause more headaches in the
long run. Another drawback is that most waterproof
mascaras can break down and smear due to oil from your
skin or emollients in your moisturizer or foundation. Do
not make the mistake of thinking that waterproof means
smear proof.
Applying
Mascara
Start by applying mascara to the lower lashes by holding
the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the
lashes. Combine this technique with the traditional
upper-lash application of brushing the mascara wand from
the base of the lashes up. Keep an old, clean mascara
wand in your makeup bag to be used for removing mascara
clumps and separating lashes.
Have you ever had mascara end up on the eyelid or under
the eye while you're applying it? Wait until it dries
completely and then chip it away with a cotton swab or
your sponge. Most of it will just flake off, with very
little repair work needed. Always check for mascara
smudges; they can look sloppy and distracting.
Mistakes to
Avoid
- Do not wear colored mascara such as
blue, purple, or green if you're going for a
professional daytime look.
- Do not wear mascara that smears;
there are lots that don't.
- Do not use waterproof mascaras on a
daily basis; they are too difficult to remove and too
hard on your lashes.
- Do not forget to apply mascara
evenly to lower lashes.
- Do not over-apply mascara; your
lashes will look clumpy.
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