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Fragrance
Information
Fragrances are
increasingly used by more and more consumers. While on the
one hand bad smells are counteracted by fragrances,
marketing experts are now trying to introduce this sense
into multimedia-based experiences. The aim is to make the
fragrance a unique feature for a certain brand or location.
Although fragrances are applied very frequently, there is
still a lack of knowledge about the potential consequences
for health and the environment. Certain substances (musk
fragrances) have been proven persistent and accumulative,
and others belong to common causes of contact eczema. Some
people also report special sensitivities towards certain
smells for unknown reasons. Fragrance materials constitute a
group of substances that should receive more attention
concerning their risk for health and the environment.
Fragrances are categorized by the following fragrance
families.
Fragrances for women
Citrus Fragrance: The light, fresh character of
citrus notes (bergamot, orange, lemon, petitgrain, mandarin
etc...) is often combined with more feminine scents (flowers,
fruits and chypre).
Citrus Lifestyle: Refreshing fragrances for the energetic,
sporty woman. Appropriate for office wear, day wear or warm
evening wear. A perfect summer fragrance especially for warm
or humid climate.
Green Fragrance: Green notes are natural in character; often
married with fruity and floral notes, they are modern and
fashionable.
Green Lifestyle. A slightly eccentric fragrance for the
modern woman. For the professional woman working in an
office atmosphere. Good day wear and occasional evening wear
in warmer weather. Sporty, charismatic and artful.
Floral Fragrance: An accord of different floral notes.
Combined with any other family, floral perfumes are
universally commercial. Single florals are included in this
family.
Floral Lifestyle: The scent of romance and starry nights.
Floral fragrances evoke memories of romantic moments, and
create new ones. The most feminine of all fragrance
families.
Chypre Fragrance: Based on a woody, mossy and flowery
complex, sometimes with aspects of leather or fruits, chypre
perfumes are rich and tenacious.
Chypre Lifestyle: Very elegant, classical, for women who
tend to prefer slightly out of the norm fragrances. Chypre
fragrances smell slightly dry, not very sweet.
Oriental Fragrance: A blend of warmth and mystery. Musks and
precious woods are complemented by exotic essences.
Oriental Lifestyle: Mystical, luxurious, dramatic, sexy,
sensual. Mostly worn in the evening.
Oceanic Fragrance: Fresh scented, slightly soapy clean
fragrances.
Oceanic Lifestyle: Sporty, young, joyous, energetic,
understated
Fragrances for men
Aromatic Fragrances: Thyme, sage, mint, rosemary,
anis and clove are but some of the herbs and spices that
produce an aromatic perfume.
Aromatic Lifestyle: Perfect for the adventurous man who
prefers exotic uplifting fragrances. A great choice for
distinguished gentlemen who appreciate the finer things in
life
Fougere Fragrance: A powerful fantasy composition of
bergamot, oakmoss and geranium.
Fougere Lifestyle: Similar to the Aromatic lifestyle but
with notes accentuating the chypre like fragrance of
oakmoss.
Citrus Fragrance: The light, fresh character of citrus notes
(bergamot, orange, lemon, petitgrain, mandarin, etc.) is
often combined with more masculine scents (woods and spices).
Citrus Lifestyle: Sporty, energetic. A great fragrance when
you want to feel refreshed. Perfect for warm and humid
summer days.
Chypre Fragrance: Based on a woody mossy and flowery complex,
sometimes with aspects of leather or fruits, chypre perfumes
are rich and tenacious.
Chypre Lifestyle: Distinguished
Oriental Fragrance: A harmony of spices, woody essences and
vanilla results in mysterious and diffusive perfumes.
Oriental Lifestyle: For the mysterious, sensual man who
prefers a stronger more prominent fragrance. Very sensual
and great for evening wear
Tobacco Fragrance: Flowers, woods and balsam create this
warm and sensual blend.
Tobacco Lifestyle: A great uncommon distinguished fragrance
for an uncommon man. For a powerful man who wants his
presence felt.
Woody Fragrance: A warm, dry, elegant and masculine scent.
Patchouli, vetyver, sandalwood and cedar form the heart of
these fragrances.
Woody Lifestyle: For the traditional distinguished
gentleman. One that is not easily influenced by trends and
is confident of his preferences.
Lavender Fragrance: A lavender note is dominated by the
fresh, bracing scent of the flower. It is often blended with
fougere, woods or floral notes.
Lavender Lifestyle: Fun loving, warm, caring
Fragrance Allergy
Cosmetics, fragrances, and botanicals are important
causes of allergic contact dermatitis. Identifying and
avoiding these allergens can pose a challenge to both the
patient and the dermatologist. Fragrances and preservatives
are the two most clinically relevant allergens in cosmetics.
Botanicals are being added to cosmetics because of consumer
demand and are now being recognized as sources of allergy as
well. Patch testing allows for the detection of allergens
that are potentially relevant in the cause of the patient's
eczema.
Allergy to fragrance results from a combination of
repeated environmental exposure and age-related
susceptibility factors. The frequency of fragrance allergy
in patch-tested patients increases with their age.
Most people in modern society are exposed daily to
fragrance ingredients from one or more sources. Fragrance
ingredients are also one of the most frequent causes of
contact allergic reactions. The diagnosis is made by patch
testing with a mixture of fragrance ingredients, the
fragrance mix. This gives a positive patch-test reaction in
about 10% of tested patients with eczema, and the most
recent estimates show that 2 to 4% of the general population
are sensitized to ingredients of the fragrance mix.
Fragrance allergy occurs predominantly in women with facial
or hand eczema. These women typically have a history of rash
to a fine fragrance or scented deodorants. Chemical analysis
has revealed that well known allergens from the fragrance
mix are present in 15-100% of cosmetic products, including
deodorants and fine fragrances, and most often in
combinations of three to four allergens in the same
products. This means that it is difficult to avoid exposure,
as products labeled as 'fragrance free' have also been shown
to contain fragrance ingredients, either because of the use
of fragrance ingredients as preservatives or masking
perfumes, or the use of botanicals. About 2500 to 3000
different fragrance ingredients are currently used in the
composition of perfumes and at least 100 of these are known
contact allergens.
Common fragrance allergy compounds include Lyral,
citral, farnesol P, citronellol, hexyl cinnamic aldehyde,
and coumarin. Lyral and citral are two well known fragrance
contact allergens and contact irritants.
Here I present a few
recent studies on fragrance allergy.
The purpose of a study
conducted by AmorePacific Corporation, R&D Center, in Yongin,
Korea, was to determine the frequency of responses to
selected fragrances in patients with suspected fragrance
allergy and to evaluate the risk factors. Nine dermatology
departments of university hospitals have participated in
this fragrance study for the period of one year. To
determine allergic response to fragrances, 18 additional
fragrances in addition to the Korean standard and a
commercial fragrance series were patch-tested in patients
with suspecting cosmetic contact dermatitis. Over 80% of the
patients were women, and the most common site was the face.
Cinnamic alcohol and sandalwood oil (Santalum album L.)
fragrance showed high frequencies of positive responses. Of
the specific fragrances, ebanol, alpha-isomethyl-ionone (methyl
ionone-gamma) and Lyral (hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexane
carboxdaldehyde) showed high positive responses. It appears
that additional fragrance allergens may be useful for the
detection of fragrance allergy.
The aim of this study
done by the Department of Dermatology, Odense University
Hospital, University of Southern Denmark, DK-5000 Odense C,
Denmark was to assess the strength of any association
between sensitization to 'new' fragrance compounds and
sensitization to Compositae, fragrance mix, Myroxylon
pereirae resin and colophonium, respectively. Consecutive
eczema patients were tested with a series of essential oils
and selected fragrance compounds and another series of
oxidized terpenes in connection with European multicentre
fragrance projects. Contact allergy to either series was
frequently detected, in 5% of 318 and 4.6% of 262 persons
tested, and both had a statistically significant association
with Compositae, colophonium and fragrance mix
sensitization. The individual results indicated that
simultaneously occurring positive reactions to essential
oils, colophonium and Compositae were based on cross-reactivity
rather than concomitant sensitization. Thus, all patients
with positive reaction to the rare fragrance sensitizer beta-caryophyllene
had positive colophonium reactions, and cross-reactivity
between essential oils and Compositae was related to the
Compositae plant extracts of the Compositae mix and not the
pure sesquiterpene lactones of the standard series. The
implication is that Compositae mix and colophonium may be
markers of fragrance allergy, which is important to know
when assessing the relevance of positive reactions to
Compositae plant extracts and colophonium.
Terpenes and Fragrance
Terpenes are widely used fragrance compounds in fine
fragrances, but also in domestic and occupational products.
Terpenes oxidize easily due to autoxidation on air exposure.
Limonene, linalool and caryophyllene are not allergenic
themselves but readily form allergenic products on air-exposure.
Physiological effects of Fragrance
It is well known that odors affect behaviors and
autonomic functions. Cedrol inhalation induced an increase
in parasympathetic activity and a reduction in sympathetic
activity, consistent with the idea of a relaxant effect of
Cedrol. Cedrol is a fragrance in sandalwood. |